Getting the backing plates and drum hardware from most ½-ton pickups/vans is easy – but wheel/axle bolt pattern is different so drums will not work. To upgrade to 11” rear drum brakes, you need 11” backing plates, hardware, drums (get new drums) and parking brake cables (slightly different – but still available new via aftermarket). I'm kind of leaning towards hyrdo-boost right now as I want to get rid of the vacuum brake booster on the firewall.Īll FMJ cars came from factory with 11” front disks/10” rear drums OR with 11” front disks/11” rear drums (police/Taxi/trailer-tow cars). Original idea was to make my own brackets and use a late model multi-piston caliper up front that wouldn't break the bank with the 11.75" rotors. Overall impression of the above is it's good, but not what I'm looking for. He specializes in Mopar brake kits and makes a lot of his own parts. All of this can be purchased from Doctor Diff. The rotors don't cost much, but you will need taller caliper brackets. The fronts on my car are just cross drilled/slotted 11.75" rotors with the factory single piston calipers. Since I was already having to do this using a full floating truck axle as a base it was no money lost. It was the cheapest disc brake kit I found at $350 complete, but required changing the housing ends on the axle. I've got Ford Explorer discs on the rear that I did at the same time as the Dana axle swap. Need more information on your setup, expected usage and budget.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |